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This article was medically reviewed by Mona Gohara, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and member of the Prevention Medical Review Board.
If you deal with acne regularly, you know how frustrating it can be to keep those pesky spots under control. You’ve tried potent spot treatments, fancy face washes, and oil-absorbing masks, but you have yet to wander into Serum Land because… how do you know which one to buy? With all the claims skincare labels make, it can feel really confusing. But you can absolutely benefit from a serum if you’re acne-prone—you just have to find one that works for your specific needs.
“Serums are great because they’re highly concentrated, they’re cosmetically elegant, and they’re easy to layer,” explains Mona Gohara, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist based in Connecticut and a member of Prevention’s Medical Review Board.
Because serums contain a high dose of a beneficial ingredient (or ingredients), they offer more bang for your buck. However, that also makes them potentially irritating. “If you’re already managing your acne with products that can be irritating,” such as a prescribed cream or spot treatment, “[adding a serum] might be too much,” says Orit Markowitz, M.D., F.A.A.D., and CEO and Founder of OptiSkin. However, adjusting your routine as needed can offset any redness, peeling, or purging (meaning you break out even more at first).
How to choose the best serum for acne-prone skin
✔️ Know your actives: There are many different active ingredients that, when formulated into a serum, could potentially aid in managing acne. But it’s important to know what they are and how they work before you buy:
- Retinol, a vitamin A derivative, isn’t just an anti-ager. Because it increases skin cell turnover, Dr. Gohara says it’s also “a tried and true acne treatment.” But its powerful nature makes it potentially irritating. Recommended use is once a day (every other, if you are just starting), at night. Many times, acne patients prefer to try a retinol prescribed by their dermatologist first.
- Hydroxy acids are alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) such as glycolic and lactic and beta hydroxy acids (BHA) such as salicylic acid that exfoliate the skin’s top layer and unclog the pores, respectively. If overused, they can dry out the skin. Recommended use is typically once a day, at night.
- Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, is anti-inflammatory and will “work on pustules, tenderness, and redness,” says Ava Shamban, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in California. It also helps balance the skin’s oil production. As a less irritating ingredient, it can be used morning and night.
- Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps even skin tone and fade acne scarring. Recommended use is daily in the morning followed by sunscreen, per Dr. Gohara.
- Hyaluronic acid hydrates skin that is dried out or irritated by excessive treatment and can be used as needed.
✔️ Watch for oils: “Cardinal rule one is to avoid the oil-based serums if you’re acne-prone,” says Dr. Markowitz. Non-comedogenic is another buzzword to look for to ensure a product was designed to not clog pores.
✔️ Choose the right cocktails: Many serums on the market contain a mix of the ingredients above. For example, you might find a salicylic acid serum that also contains hyaluronic acid. That’s good, because as salicylic exfoliates, hyaluronic acid hydrates and repairs.
✔️ Start slow: In other words, don’t buy one of everything and start slathering. “You always have to make sure that you’re using a small amount (the size of a pea) and working up gradually so that you’re not irritating your skin,” says Dr. Gohara. If you’re using more than one potentially drying serum, try implementing them on alternate nights. (And remember, serum is applied after cleansing and before moisturizer or sunscreen.)
Now that you’ve taken a crash course in serums, check out the derm-approved picks below if you have acne-prone skin.
Dr. Gohara is a huge fan of The Ordinary products, because they’re both affordable and effective. “I like this because it has squalane, so it’s hydrating,” she says, but it also improves the skin’s tone and texture with the help of retinol. If you’re acne-prone but have combination or dry skin, this one is for you.
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The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
Both Dr. Shamban and Dr. Gohara recommend this serum, which has more of a gel-like consistency. Zinc and niacinamide tamp down inflammation while working to fade post-acne marks. The combo also helps balance the skin’s sebum production, which is especially helpful if your skin is extra oily.
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Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Salicylic Acid Exfoliant
While technically not a serum, this product feels like one and is meant to be used in a similar way—after cleansing and before moisturizer. “I think it’s a great addition to someone’s routine when they are looking to combat acne,” says Dr. Markowitz. “It’s a gentle leave-on formula that exfoliates dead skin cells while unclogging and clearing pores,” thanks to 2% salicylic acid.
This serum has it all for acne-prone skin: retinol to tackle the problem directly, ceramides to help nourish and strengthen the delicate skin barrier, niacinamide to keep oil under control, and licorice root to soothe. It’s especially ideal for anyone who is dealing with large pores or stubborn scarring. Because the brand is formulated with sensitive skin in mind, it’s also loved by most dermatologists (including our experts).
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Infused with willow bark (a natural form of salicylic acid) and tea tree oil (which helps combat oil), this serum helps calm redness and irritation while gently exfoliating to prevent future breakouts, earning Dr. Shamban’s stamp of approval.
This salicylic acid serum kills two birds with one stone by fighting breakouts and reducing wrinkles at the same time. That’s why both Dr. Shamban and Dr. Gohara say it’s a great pick. It contains various skin-clearing acids to decongest clogged pores, reduce signs of aging, and improve uneven skin tone.
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Zinc, willow bark, and niacinamide expertly work together to gently exfoliate, tame redness, and calm breakouts. The formula of this serum is extremely thin and lightweight, so it absorbs quickly to get to work. Bonus: It’s only about $20, making it one of the more affordable options on this list.
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Sunday Riley U.F.O. Ultra-Clarifying Face Oil
We know what you’re thinking, “You said no oils!” This product is the exception. Dr. Shamban likes it because it’s a special, dry oil that quickly absorbs into the skin. It contains salicylic acid and tea tree oil to keep pores clear and licorice root extract to help fade hyperpigmentation left behind by breakouts.
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“This is a great lightweight serum that was created for acne-prone skin, formulated with salicylic acid,” says Dr. Markowitz. “The formula is also fragrance-free, which is a great benefit for sensitive skin types.”
If you’ve never used a retinol product before, this serum is a great place to start, Dr. Gohara says, because it has a low percentage of the powerful ingredient. It also contains hyaluronic acid and peptides (known as the “building blocks” of proteins) to work on hydrating and smoothing the appearance of fine lines.
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“Especially in brown and Black skin when we get pimples, we can have discoloration,” Dr. Gohara explains. The antioxidants in a vitamin C serum keep those marks from sticking around and with the help of nourishing vitamin E, they’re even more effective. “They are good antioxidants individually but even better when they work together,” she adds.
If there was ever an all-in-one serum for acne-prone skin, here it is. Recommended by Dr. Shamban, it’s marketed to clogged, oily skin types and contains salicylic acid, lactic acid, and a retinoid, which means it’s a pretty strong exfoliant. If you pick this one up, try it in small, gradual increments and remember to always follow it with sunscreen the next morning.
Kayla Blanton
Kayla Blanton is a freelance writer-editor who covers health, nutrition, and lifestyle topics for various publications including Prevention, Everyday Health, SELF, People, and more. She’s always open to conversations about fueling up with flavorful dishes, busting beauty standards, and finding new, gentle ways to care for our bodies. She earned a bachelor’s degree in journalism from Ohio University with specializations in women, gender, and sexuality studies and public health, and is a born-and-raised midwesterner living in Cincinnati, Ohio with her husband and two spoiled kitties.